Impact of theobroma cacao seed extract on photodamage induced by UVs and blue light

Summary: Abstract Body: Solar exposition is a major cause of skin aging. Solar spectrum contains the well-known ultra-violet (UV: 100-400 nm), visible light (VIS: 400-770 nm) and infrared (IR: 760-1,000,000 nm) components. Blue light (400-495 nm) represents the highest part of VIS energy and is increasingly described for adverse effects such as free radical production, DNA damage and melatonin alteration. In a previous study we have highlighted the negative effect of blue light on the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and opsin photoreceptors. The increase of ROS level, and the decrease of skin opsin induced by blue light on human keratinocytes were counteracted by the application of a Theobroma cacao seed extract (TCE). This TCE was obtained from Nagoya compliant and ethical verified source with white biotechnology to enriched it in natural peptides. Proteomic and artificial intelligence studies allowed to highlight choline acetyl transferase analog peptide in the extract. As this enzyme is implicated in pigmentation, new study was performed with different irradiation stresses (UVA, UVB and blue light) on skin biopsies and on reconstructed epidermis with different melanin levels. These irradiations caused skin damage and hyperpigmentation that were compensated by the 1% TCE application. Bue light and UV exposure impacts were evaluated on opsin 3 and tyrosinase expression in melanocytes and on microsphere ingestion by keratinocytes. The use of TCE counteracted the induced decrease in opsin 3 and increased tyrosinase in melanocytes. It also counteracted the increased absorption of microspheres induced by UV and blue light on keratinocytes. Moreover, the application of 1% TCE increased expression of LC3 autophagy marker in skin biopsies. Thus, the sustainable, ethical, natural extract of Theobroma cacao rich in peptides protects the skin from sun damage by maintaining natural melanin balance control mechanisms. Magali Bonnans¹, Christelle Plaza¹, Alexia Lebleu¹, Audrey Le Mestr¹, Isabelle Imbert¹ 1. Ashland Global Specialty Chemicals Inc, Covington, KY, United States. Pigmentation, Melanoma, and Melanoma Immune Surveillance